Mechanics Tips
We have touched on bike maintenance in the past, hopefully aiding you in nursing your bike through winter, or generally keeping your drivetrain going strong to avoid a hefty bill at the end when it turns out you need to replace the whole lot. This time around we concentrate on a few simple tasks and skills which, if performed with some sort of regularity, will lengthen the life of your bike’s parts and save you not only money but having a bike that doesn’t quite perform to the level you know it can.
What will I require?
It goes without saying that if you want to save money and look after your bike(s) in the long-term you’ll need to invest a little in the short-term. If you don’t have any already, get some of the following line-up of tools. Then – look after them. It’s easy for your tools to get knocked about and lose their functionality due to edges rounding off from mis-use.
If they’re showing signs of wear, resign them to the dustbin and get them replaced. You don’t want to be working on a crucial bolt and have it ‘round out’ leaving you with a bolt that might well have to be drilled out.
Allen keys
The most fundamental of tools must surely be the venerable Allen key. These come in a variety of guises from long-handle, to T-bar, Y-type, flat or ball-headed. All have their place in your arsenal of tools.
Flat headed allen keys will allow you to apply real torque to stubborn bolts as they have a far greater contact area inside the bolt head, reducing the risk of rounding out the bolt. Ball-headed allen keys have been designed to access bolts with hampered access. They’re great for awkward positions but shouldn’t be used heavy-handedly.
Our recommendation would be for a set of Y-type allen keys with flat heads and a set of long handle ball-headed types to have you covered.
It is worth noting that there appears to be a migration towards Torq-head type bolts on high-end bikes at the moment. So check your bike and make sure you have these to hand as well.
What will I require?
It goes without saying that if you want to save money and look after your bike(s) in the long-term you’ll need to invest a little in the short-term. If you don’t have any already, get some of the following line-up of tools. Then – look after them. It’s easy for your tools to get knocked about and lose their functionality due to edges rounding off from mis-use.
If they’re showing signs of wear, resign them to the dustbin and get them replaced. You don’t want to be working on a crucial bolt and have it ‘round out’ leaving you with a bolt that might well have to be drilled out.
Allen keys
The most fundamental of tools must surely be the venerable Allen key. These come in a variety of guises from long-handle, to T-bar, Y-type, flat or ball-headed. All have their place in your arsenal of tools.
Flat headed allen keys will allow you to apply real torque to stubborn bolts as they have a far greater contact area inside the bolt head, reducing the risk of rounding out the bolt. Ball-headed allen keys have been designed to access bolts with hampered access. They’re great for awkward positions but shouldn’t be used heavy-handedly.
Our recommendation would be for a set of Y-type allen keys with flat heads and a set of long handle ball-headed types to have you covered.
It is worth noting that there appears to be a migration towards Torq-head type bolts on high-end bikes at the moment. So check your bike and make sure you have these to hand as well.
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Manufacturer’s tools
Much like a DIY bed from a hardware store, some bike components are provided with tools for fitting. Make sure you:
a) use them
b) keep them
You never know when you will require these again, so look after them. After all – you have paid for them! When getting parts fitted at your local shop, ensure you pick up the free tool and take it home with you.
Cassette tools
They may not get changed that often but occasionally cassettes need tightening and/or removing. You will require a freewheel extractor and also a chain whip. The freewheel extractor performs the task of actually removing the cassette from the hub and the chain whip holds the cassette in place, preventing it from spinning around during the process.
Make sure you have the correct freewheel extractor as Campagnolo are different to Shimano and SRAM, so check.
Much like a DIY bed from a hardware store, some bike components are provided with tools for fitting. Make sure you:
a) use them
b) keep them
You never know when you will require these again, so look after them. After all – you have paid for them! When getting parts fitted at your local shop, ensure you pick up the free tool and take it home with you.
Cassette tools
They may not get changed that often but occasionally cassettes need tightening and/or removing. You will require a freewheel extractor and also a chain whip. The freewheel extractor performs the task of actually removing the cassette from the hub and the chain whip holds the cassette in place, preventing it from spinning around during the process.
Make sure you have the correct freewheel extractor as Campagnolo are different to Shimano and SRAM, so check.
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Other tools
You’ll need an ensemble of flat head and Phillips-style screwdrivers, too. These are useful not only for screws with the matching head but also for the odd random job (say, separating apart your disc pads). If using these tools for jobs like this either have a spare flat-head that can get knocked about a little or ensure the blade stays true and flat by filing off any burrs that may develop.
Pedal spanner
Check your pedal fitting as most pedals accept a 14/15mm spanner around the axle itself and many manufacturers produce a specific spanner for this purpose as pedals come off and on bikes quite often. Yours may take an allen key through the inside of the pedal axle. Often these are 6, 8 or 10mm, so check yours.
You’ll need an ensemble of flat head and Phillips-style screwdrivers, too. These are useful not only for screws with the matching head but also for the odd random job (say, separating apart your disc pads). If using these tools for jobs like this either have a spare flat-head that can get knocked about a little or ensure the blade stays true and flat by filing off any burrs that may develop.
Pedal spanner
Check your pedal fitting as most pedals accept a 14/15mm spanner around the axle itself and many manufacturers produce a specific spanner for this purpose as pedals come off and on bikes quite often. Yours may take an allen key through the inside of the pedal axle. Often these are 6, 8 or 10mm, so check yours.
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Workstand
Working on a bike lying against a wall is, to be frank, a real pain. You have less access to the bike and there is no stability meaning the bike is free to roll back and forth.
This means a good workshop stand is essential. There are many varieties available and most of them will fold away neatly. They can also double as a display stand to show off your pride and joy when not in use.
When clamping your bike into the stand, avoid using the top tube for the clamping zone as not only could this damage the frame but in many cases there are cables running along the top tube that will be impinged by the workshop clamp. Have the bike hanging so that the front wheel is lower than the rear – otherwise it tends to wag side to side whilst you’re working on the bike and can become quite irritating.
The jobs-
Fitting and removing pedals
Pedals, some might say, are cruelly made with opposing threads just to confuse but there is good scientific rationale behind this – it means the thread is always tightening as opposed to loosening whilst you’re riding. As such they are marked LEFT and RIGHT. It is imperative to put the pedal marked RIGHT, or R on to the right-hand side of the bike (this is the side with the drivetrain) and vice-versa with the left - see pic below, where you can also see the flattened part of the axle ready to take a pedal spanner.
Working on a bike lying against a wall is, to be frank, a real pain. You have less access to the bike and there is no stability meaning the bike is free to roll back and forth.
This means a good workshop stand is essential. There are many varieties available and most of them will fold away neatly. They can also double as a display stand to show off your pride and joy when not in use.
When clamping your bike into the stand, avoid using the top tube for the clamping zone as not only could this damage the frame but in many cases there are cables running along the top tube that will be impinged by the workshop clamp. Have the bike hanging so that the front wheel is lower than the rear – otherwise it tends to wag side to side whilst you’re working on the bike and can become quite irritating.
The jobs-
Fitting and removing pedals
Pedals, some might say, are cruelly made with opposing threads just to confuse but there is good scientific rationale behind this – it means the thread is always tightening as opposed to loosening whilst you’re riding. As such they are marked LEFT and RIGHT. It is imperative to put the pedal marked RIGHT, or R on to the right-hand side of the bike (this is the side with the drivetrain) and vice-versa with the left - see pic below, where you can also see the flattened part of the axle ready to take a pedal spanner.
To undo pedals, unwind them back and over the pedal axle as you’re looking at the bike. The longer version of this is, whilst looking at the bike from the drive-side so the front wheel is towards your right shoulder, unwind the pedal ANTI-CLOCKWISE. If you do the same for the left pedal, leaving the front wheel on your left shoulder, you’ll need to turn the pedal CLOCKWISE to get it off.
When fitting pedals do the opposite to the above, making sure not only that the threads go in square and that you apply a decent amount of force to them to prevent them coming undone of their own accord, but that you have applied a small amount of axle grease to the threads so they don’t seize.
Chains
We have run through this before when looking at bike storage and winter preparations but it’s worth noting again – chains are often neglected and can save you the most money in the long-term if looked after correctly.
- make sure it’s lubricated with a season-specific lubricant ie wet/winter lube for winter and a dry/summer lube for summer.
- clean it properly with degreaser and a chain cleaner.
When fitting pedals do the opposite to the above, making sure not only that the threads go in square and that you apply a decent amount of force to them to prevent them coming undone of their own accord, but that you have applied a small amount of axle grease to the threads so they don’t seize.
Chains
We have run through this before when looking at bike storage and winter preparations but it’s worth noting again – chains are often neglected and can save you the most money in the long-term if looked after correctly.
- make sure it’s lubricated with a season-specific lubricant ie wet/winter lube for winter and a dry/summer lube for summer.
- clean it properly with degreaser and a chain cleaner.
- don’t have excess lube on the chain. Wipe it down so a thin layer is all that remains. Excess lube attracts more dirt and causes faster chain wear.
- Use a chain-checker to assess wear and change the chain when needed. It will save you having to replace your cassette and chain rings before you should have to.
Seatpost
It seems awfully simple but make sure your seatpost is properly garnished in the correct lubricant. Pull out your post and clean it thoroughly. Make sure you clean the seat-tube as well giving you a clean slate to start from. If using an aluminium or steel post in an aluminium or steel frame, apply grease to the post to ensure it doesn’t seize in the frame. There have been extreme cases where entire frames have been discarded due to the seatpost seizing and bonding with the frame. Don’t let it happen to you!
If using a carbon post or a carbon frame check the manufacturers’ specifications for a seatpost lubricant. Check both the seatpost’s instructions and the frame’s. Often there is a specific carbon grease that must be used. If it says to use it, then do not use conventional grease.
Tyres / tubes
Tyres and tubes invariably require removal at some point either because of wear or because of a puncture. Remove the offending wheel and grab your tyre levers. It’s worth bearing in mind that certain tyre/rim combinations can prove exceptionally difficult to remove. However, it is only in the very rarest of circumstances that they will not come off using the method below:
1. Unseat the tyre’s bead from the rim. Do this by pulling the deflated tyre away from the rim and towards the centre. Go right the way around until the bead has unseated.
2. Repeat with the other side. Now the tyre’s beads should be sat in the middle of the rim and away from the edge. This relieves tension in the tyre and makes it easier to remove.
3. Grab both your tyre levers and use the slim, curved, end and slot one of them under the tyre bead.
4. Approximately 10-15cm away from the first tyre lever, do the same with the second.
5. In one movement, lever both tyre levers over the rim, bringing the tyre bead with them. The tyre should ‘pop’ over the rim.
6. Use one of the tyre levers and work your way around the rim until the whole bead has been removed.
7. Everything else will now just fall off.
Common problems:
- You can’t get the two levers to pop the tyre bead in unison. Try moving the levers closer together and re-trying.
- You tried the above and can’t even get the one lever to pop the bead. You have a tough one! With the wheel on the floor, stand on the tyre with your feet and effectively ‘pull’ the tyre from those lowest points up and towards you. Repeat a couple of times. What you’re trying to achieve is tension at the bottom and looseness at the top. Now try again with what should now be a looser tyre at the top.
- If all else fails: grab a friend and work it together. The short of it is that it went on – so it will come off!
When re-seating a tyre, have the tube partially inflated and make sure you don’t pinch it between the tyre bead and the rim whilst seating the tyre. Otherwise you’ll have to start all over again. Upon pumping up, get the tyre up to 15-20psi and then stop and check to make sure the bead is sitting correctly, otherwise as the inner tube expands it could blow off the tyre. Inflate until the bead is sitting correctly on the rim (ie there are no wobbles in the tyre) and ensure you don’t exceed the recommended tyre pressures as written on the sidewall if you want it that firm.
Grips
A common problem on bikes with flat bars or risers is having the grips spin round on the bars. Not only can this be irritating but is potentially dangerous as your control of the bike is diminished. Remove the grips, degrease their inside and do the same to the handlebar. Then, once dry, spray both the bar and the inside of the grips liberally with hair-spray and quickly put in place. Leave to dry for an hour or so. Preferably overnight.
A good alternative is to grab a pair of loc-on grips. These are grips with clamping areas either at one end or both that secure the grips to the bar. Recommended if you’re suffering from spinning-grip syndrome.
- Use a chain-checker to assess wear and change the chain when needed. It will save you having to replace your cassette and chain rings before you should have to.
Seatpost
It seems awfully simple but make sure your seatpost is properly garnished in the correct lubricant. Pull out your post and clean it thoroughly. Make sure you clean the seat-tube as well giving you a clean slate to start from. If using an aluminium or steel post in an aluminium or steel frame, apply grease to the post to ensure it doesn’t seize in the frame. There have been extreme cases where entire frames have been discarded due to the seatpost seizing and bonding with the frame. Don’t let it happen to you!
If using a carbon post or a carbon frame check the manufacturers’ specifications for a seatpost lubricant. Check both the seatpost’s instructions and the frame’s. Often there is a specific carbon grease that must be used. If it says to use it, then do not use conventional grease.
Tyres / tubes
Tyres and tubes invariably require removal at some point either because of wear or because of a puncture. Remove the offending wheel and grab your tyre levers. It’s worth bearing in mind that certain tyre/rim combinations can prove exceptionally difficult to remove. However, it is only in the very rarest of circumstances that they will not come off using the method below:
1. Unseat the tyre’s bead from the rim. Do this by pulling the deflated tyre away from the rim and towards the centre. Go right the way around until the bead has unseated.
2. Repeat with the other side. Now the tyre’s beads should be sat in the middle of the rim and away from the edge. This relieves tension in the tyre and makes it easier to remove.
3. Grab both your tyre levers and use the slim, curved, end and slot one of them under the tyre bead.
4. Approximately 10-15cm away from the first tyre lever, do the same with the second.
5. In one movement, lever both tyre levers over the rim, bringing the tyre bead with them. The tyre should ‘pop’ over the rim.
6. Use one of the tyre levers and work your way around the rim until the whole bead has been removed.
7. Everything else will now just fall off.
Common problems:
- You can’t get the two levers to pop the tyre bead in unison. Try moving the levers closer together and re-trying.
- You tried the above and can’t even get the one lever to pop the bead. You have a tough one! With the wheel on the floor, stand on the tyre with your feet and effectively ‘pull’ the tyre from those lowest points up and towards you. Repeat a couple of times. What you’re trying to achieve is tension at the bottom and looseness at the top. Now try again with what should now be a looser tyre at the top.
- If all else fails: grab a friend and work it together. The short of it is that it went on – so it will come off!
When re-seating a tyre, have the tube partially inflated and make sure you don’t pinch it between the tyre bead and the rim whilst seating the tyre. Otherwise you’ll have to start all over again. Upon pumping up, get the tyre up to 15-20psi and then stop and check to make sure the bead is sitting correctly, otherwise as the inner tube expands it could blow off the tyre. Inflate until the bead is sitting correctly on the rim (ie there are no wobbles in the tyre) and ensure you don’t exceed the recommended tyre pressures as written on the sidewall if you want it that firm.
Grips
A common problem on bikes with flat bars or risers is having the grips spin round on the bars. Not only can this be irritating but is potentially dangerous as your control of the bike is diminished. Remove the grips, degrease their inside and do the same to the handlebar. Then, once dry, spray both the bar and the inside of the grips liberally with hair-spray and quickly put in place. Leave to dry for an hour or so. Preferably overnight.
A good alternative is to grab a pair of loc-on grips. These are grips with clamping areas either at one end or both that secure the grips to the bar. Recommended if you’re suffering from spinning-grip syndrome.
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The above is just a handful of common jobs and none take too much time to perform. We’ll be diving deeper into the mechanic’s handbook in the future.
